Gunks

I have always enjoyed climbing at the Shawangunks (pronounced Shahn-Gums), near New Paltz, NY. Easy access, interesting and varied climbing on clean rock, beautiful scenery, and a good atmosphere. Since we’ve been on the west coast for 2 years, I hadn’t had a chance to climb there for several years. Sure, I’ve climbed in the Rockies, Squamish, Skaha, logged hours in the alpine, alpine-tour skied (which is all good) but C and I have always thought that the Gunks were a special place.

Last November, a huge section of rock came tumbling down the cliff, cratering the carriage road (approach road) and clearing a huge swath of trees as it tumbled down. Erosion is always present, but to see something like this (or the aftermath) is always impressive. Unfortunately, my favourite climb, Madame Grunnebaum’s Wulst was closed. First due to the rockfall and second due to peregrines nesting. But with well over 500 climbs listed in the local guidebook, I wasn’t deterred. In April we got on a slew of classics which included Sixish, Horseman, Frogshead, Arrow, Limelight, and Annie O.

Much to my delight, when we were there in July, Madame G’s was open again. Wonderful climbing, about 50-55 meters, can be done in 3 pitches but we did it in two (love double ropes). I originally climbed it 5 or 6 years before so I didn’t remember much about the climb (which is even better) and I was happy to find that it was just as fun as last time. Other classic routes that weekend were Wisecrack, Middle Earth, Ken’s Crack, Beginner’s Delight, Jackie and Maria.

Madame G's

All in all, the two trips to the Gunks were great. I won’t be back this year and depending on how things go with work, I may not be back for a while again.

~ by barbagallo on July 21, 2009.