IPhone 4

The brilliance of this is only shadowed only by the fact that I have one of these.

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Conduct Unbecoming

When I first read this I honestly told myself that a retort was really not worth my time.  I was torn.  On the one hand, my retort would change nothing.  On the other, I must respond!  Really, Gen (ret,d) Frederick J. Kroesen makes this so easy, its almost not fun.  Read the article first.

http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/2010/may/12/risky-moves-in-the-military/

Where do I begin?

“The real issue involved is not the identity of homosexuals, it is the behavior of individuals who violate the law and are therefore liable for action prescribed by the Uniform Code of Military Justice (UCMJ).”

No, you are homophobic and trying to hide behind the smoke and mirrors of feigned intellect and legal babble.

“Fellatio, sodomy and other practices generally associated with homosexuals are illegal, improper or “conduct unbecoming” and cause for command attention. The same is true of rape, incest and prostitution, generally thought of as heterosexual transgressions. All are punishable activities that can be cause for judicial attention and possible punitive reaction.”

“A policy change might allow homosexuals to serve openly if they so desire, but changes in the law are being sought by those who seek to make legal the practices that are banned now. It is those changes that I and most experienced commanders do not want.”

You admit that the acts (fellatio, sodomy, rape, incest and prostitution) are illegal.  So if “practices generally associated with homosexuals” results in homosexuality not being accepted, maybe practices which “generally thought of as heterosexual transgressions” should mean that heterosexuality can’t be acceptable either.  While we’re at it, let’s make bisexuality non-acceptable as well and any other –sexualities we can possibly think of, just to be on the safe side.

“The conduct of persons who choose to engage in such activities, particularly when they accost or force themselves on uninterested, uncooperative or unwilling victims, is almost always detrimental, impacting on morale and esprit de corps. Unit cohesion suffers, and the dissolution of a “band of brothers” cohort normally ensues. Either outcome affects readiness and the combat effectiveness of units whose mission is manpower-dominant.”

Here is list of countries which openly allow homosexuals to serve in the military (which I know of): Argentina, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Bermuda, Brazil, Canada, Colombia, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Peru, Philippines, Romania, Russia, Slovenia, South Africa, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, United Kingdom, Uruguay.

Soldiers from some of these countries fought (and died) alongside Americans in both Iraq and Afghanistan.  Others which have not still have extensive combat experience in the very recent past.  They obviously all suffer from a lack of unit cohesion. How un-American of them!

Now, stay with me here.  So you are saying that ‘such activities’ which are forced upon by others affect unit cohesion, esprit de corps and moral.  By “such activities”, do you mean fellatio, sodomy, rape, incest and prostitution or just homosexuality?  So, are you saying that heterosexuals who commit these acts do not affect unit cohesion, esprit de corps and moral?

 “I cannot predict the consequences of the changes being pursued by the homosexual community, but I can observe that edicts issued top-down by the ruling hierarchies of some of our long-established churches regarding tolerance and acceptance of homosexuality seem to be tearing them asunder. We must not chance the same kind of reaction in our armed forces. “

At least, sir, you admit to being a right-winged, bible-thumping, homophobic bigot.  Good for you.

“I am a retired soldier. My service began in 1942 and ended in 1983.”

P.S., The world has changed since 1983.  It’s actually 2010.  That’s 27 years in the future.  American society, heck, the world has changed.  Heaven forbid that the military should change and evolve to reflect current thought and society.  Some may argue that it has changed for the worse, but I won’t debate that here.

Shall I go on?

Finally! Nuclear Fusion has been achieved!

The Holy Grail of clean, sustainable energy, nuclear fusion, has been achieved by North Korea. In one swoop they have been able to trump 60 years of research, trillions in funding and the best and brightest minds the world over. Through Kim Jong-il’s exceptional leadership skills and astounding knowledge of particle and nuclear physics, he elegantly led his country’s scientists to this success. If you didn’t already know, he can also control the weather and is apparently the fastest person in the world. And, of course, he calls himself ‘Dear Leader.’

http://www.wtop.com/?nid=105&sid=1955186

Now that they have a limitless source of energy, North Korea no longer needs the huge amounts of food and oil aid. Good luck with that Kim Jong-il. Let us know how it works out.

Sure I’ll volunteer – as long as I get paid

Now this just pisses me off. 

http://www.cbc.ca/canada/montreal/story/2010/01/27/quebec-orthopedists-want-pay-for-volunteering-in-haiti.html 

“Quebec orthopedists heading to Haiti to volunteer in relief efforts want to be paid their normal daily $800 wage, according to reports published Wednesday. … According to a letter signed by Jacques Desnoyers, president of Quebec’s orthopedists association, the doctors expect to be paid their average daily salary of $800 under medicare while working in Haiti. … Dr. Gaétan Barrette said firefighters and police officers sent to Haiti are remunerated, and physicians should be too.”

Well, astute members of the Quebec Orthopedists Association, the key difference for you to understand is that policemen and firefighters were SENT to Haiti.  Just incase you geniuses need help with the definition of SENT, here is the definition from the Oxford dictionary:

 “To order or direct to go or to be conveyed. To commission, order, or request (a person) to go to or into a place or to a person.”

 Now for VOLUNTEER:

 “Voluntarily performing any action or service; undertaking a service of one’s own free will.”

 So, the policemen and firefighters were told that they are going to Haiti.  They didn’t have a choice.  They didn’t have a choice to not face the dangers.  They were told they were leaving their families behind and don’t know when they’ll be back.  You, on the other hand, do have a choice.  Thus you volunteered.  Like Doctors without Borders.

 So, why should we pay you?

Cannoli – the best italian desert

I’ve made these a few times now and I always get rave reviews each time I make them.  The recipe itself is very simple and allows for a lot of creativity, experimentation and variety.  So here goes. 

Cannoli shells.

 The most important part of this is to buy the proper aluminum cannolli rings.  We bought our pack of 4 for $5.  So really cheap.

 Ingredients:

 Flour

Icing sugar

Spices

Buttermilk

Egg white

 The basic recipe for this is 2 parts flour for 1part icing sugar with the proper amount of liquid added.  I use buttermilk but milk or water would work just as well.  Buttermilk does add the extra fluffiness that I like.  I also add some other spice in the mix such as cinnamon or cloves.  Figure that 1 ½ cups of flour with ¾ cup of sugar will yield about 20 rings.

 Mix all the dry ingredients together and then slowly add liquid until the desired texture is reached.  Aim for pizza dough texture.  Knead for 5 minutes and then let it rest for ½ hour.  Separate into golf ball size pieces and roll out until very, very thin.  Now, cut out the proper sized pieces to wrap around the cannoli rings.  Join each end with egg white.  Ensure that the dough is shorter than the metal because as they cook the dough expands and it may expand past and around the ring, trapping it inside.

 Now for the long part.  A bit of wine does make time go by faster.  You will have to deep fry these so if you have a deep fryer, this is easy.  If not, put oil into a pot or pan (3/4 to 1 inch) and heat it on the stove top at low to medium-low.  As the oil heats, put in a piece of dough to test the oil temperature.  It should fry the dough and brown it in around 20 seconds.  Once it is hot enough, one at a time, fry each ring.  Once browned on every side (2-3 minutes), remove it from the oil and gently tap the end of the ring on a plate to loosen the ring and then using thongs, gently, gently, pull off the cannoli shell.  I made twenty and I have 4 rings so it took me a little over an hour.  

 With a bit of patience and some experimentation you’ll get it.  Since you are deep frying stuff, be smart and be safe.  When the oil is not is use turn off the burner and remove the pot.  Keep the lid handy to cut off the oxygen should the oil start to smoke.  And keep the fan running.

 Cannoli filling

 This is the fun part!  Whip ricotta (or mascarpone) with a generous amount of icing sugar and any flavouring you want.  One kilogram of ricotta (2 conventional containers) will fill 20 rings.  Flavouring suggestions:

 Rum, Vanilla, Orange pulp

 Cinnamon, Almond flour, Limoncello

 Pomegranate syrup, Cloves, Lemon zest

 Now, fill the shells using a cake icing decorator, and serve.   These do keep well when separated but once the icing is inside the shells, they become soggy in a few hours.  So it is best to combine just before serving.

Western Righteousness

On Sunday I was sitting on the couch quietly watching football.  The dog was lying on the couch next to me oblivious to the world, which is her normal afternoon routine.  I myself was nodding-off when DING DONG, doorbell rings.  Dog hops off with her all-in-one growl-bark-howl-whimper and I go have a look-see at the door.  Open up, and it was a Muslim man, probably from the India-Pakistan-Afghanistan region and he gives me pamphlet, says “Peace be with you” and walks away, presumably to the next door.  I have a look at it and it was, quite simply, a pamphlet which stated that Islam is a religion of tolerance and peace and that many Muslims have misinterpreted what the Qur’an says which has led, in part, to our current religious confrontations. 

Is the West so xenophobic that a minority group has resorted to distributing pamphlets about itself so that others would not discriminate against them?  Whatever happened to the “multi-cultural” Canada?  I realize that as the brainchild of Trudeau, it, as well as the Charter of Rights and Freedoms, were put in place for other ulterior political motives but, I truly am dismayed by what this poor guy had to do on a Sunday afternoon.  For him to do this, he and others feel that they are misunderstood and I’ll bet real money that he has been subject to discrimination, segregation, racism, bigotry and probably physical abuse by those who, not only don’t understand, but don’t want to understand.  

We strive to ensure this attitude is vanguished in far off places like Afghanistan but are not even able to combat it effectively in our own backyard.  Some “righteous” society we are.

“Prejudice, not being founded on reason, cannot be removed by argument” – Samuel Johnson. 

 It must be taught.

Mmmm… Lamb…

So yesterday I had it in my head to made cannolis.  Don’t ask me where it came from, but I just had the urge.  The only catch was that, hey, I don’t got no cannoli moulds.  So, I search the kitchen and try to find an alternative.  I briefly thought of using the rolling pin but quickly realized that first, I need it to roll out the cannolis and second, it probably would be a bad idea to dunk a wooden rolling pin into hot oil to cook the cannolis.  So, off we go to a local cooking store to get some.

Before hand, we had a lunch date with L and C at The LIght of India.  L, for her part,  has moved on to some shit-hole in the middle of Manitoba and makes no qualms about describing it that way while her bud C, was just out for some indian food.  We stuffed ourselves, talked politics, philosophy and trips (I know, I’m so lame now) and then parted company.  Thoroughly stuffed with food, C and I walk to the cooking store.  Oh, the irony…

The salesperson took a while to track down cannoli moulds.  While she was looking, C set off to increase our credit card debt (she is a woman afterall) and found a tajine.  After a discussion about what size to get (notice I wasn’t resisting the concept) we settle on the size for 6.  The box says it is big enough to cook a meal for 6, but really, I think 4, tops.  Bring it home, read the instructions, boiled milk in it like the box said to, and today we used it.  Came up with this:

Really, its easy as pie to use.  Fry meat in spices and onion, add water, cook for 60 minutes, garnish and serve.  We cooked lamb in onions and prunes and spiced it with  harissa-type spicing which I made that morning.  The focaccia recipe was shamelessly adapted from tinman’s recipe and turned out quite well.  As he’s a long-time friend, I’m sure he won’t mind that little bit of copyright infringement.

 

 

It was really, really good.

Duck, duck, and more duck

I like duck confit.  I’ve made cassoulet with duck confit as well as paté, terrine, and other awesome treats.  I’ve made it in the past for folks and I’m always asked about the recipe.  Buying it in the store is always expensive and in my opinion, not worth the cost.  This is really fun to make and you get so much more than just duck.  So, if you ever wanted to know, here’s how you make it.  It’s actually really easy, a.k.a., fire and forget (almost).

Ingredients

Duck

Duck Fat – available at any butcher shop

Sea Salt

Olive Oil

Herbs and spices

De-boned

In the past, I’ve normally bought pieces of duck breast and leg. But this time, I couldn’t find enough so I bought a whole duck.  So, I had to first de-bone it. Having never done this to a duck, I was hoping that it was similar to chicken, and it is.  Simply split the meat down the back and then using a de-boning or peering knife, slowing detach the muscles from the skeleton, slowly working to the chest and towards the extremities.  Not as hard as it sounds.  It took me about 45 minutes to de-bone.

Now for the fun part.  Put the duck in large container and cover in sea salt on both sides.  The more salt the better, really! I stuck it in a Pyrex.  Cover, put in the fridge for about 24 hours.  This process dehydrates the duck and gets it ready to absorb the flavours and fats in the preserving process.  After this is done, brush the salt off the duck and put it into a clean oven pot.  Don’t rinse it off because it will just rehydrate it and you don’t want that, yet.  I like using a Creuset, myself.  Add any spice and flavours you like.  I usually just pull stuff out of the pantry and fridge which I think goes well with duck.  This time, I used cracked pepper, fresh ground cloves and cardamom, tarragon, and basil.  Now, cover the duck completely with fat and oil.  It sounds gross but is essential for the process.  Remember that you dehydrated the duck and the meat will now absorb the oil and preserve it.  Finally, put it in the oven for 10-12 hours at 180F (82C).  I usually stick it in overnight.

Salted

After 36 hours you’ll have 3 things:

1)            Wonderful duck confit which only get better with time – stick it in jars, cover it in the still warm fat and put it in the fridge.  I’ve kept it for up to 2 months this way and I’m sure it would last longer.

2)            Clear duck fat which absorbed the flavours of the spice.  This is a great addition for soups, stews and sauces – and fried eggs.

3)            Gelatinous, salty, fatty, dark goo on the bottom of your pot.  Again, great to add flavour in other recipes.  Just stick your finger in it while it’s still warm – just awesome!

36 hours later

For those of who like your taters, try this – slice ‘em and stick ‘em on the bottom of your pot before the duck.  So, they cook in 12 hours of fatty, gelatinous, salty, glory!  Had them with eggs and bacon that morning.  Oh my!

BEST TATERS EVER!

Rockies – The End

After Mt Victoria, we slowly made our way north towards Jasper. On our way there, we passed through the Columbia Icefield which always makes my heart flutter. Just seeing Mts. Athabasca, Andromeda, Snowdome, and Kitchener from the highway (all over 11,000 ft) as well other prominent peaks sends me into a mountaineering daydreaming mode. In fact, one of my pet projects is a June ski accent of some of those peaks via the Athabasca Glacier – hopefully in a few years (any potential partners out there?)

Athabasca (L) and Andromeda (R)

 

We stopped and took pictures again and were eyeing Mt Wilcox (behind the Icefields Center) as a possible scramble. I had Athabasca on our tic list as a possibility but it would be an involved climb and we were both pretty tired. At this point I had lost about 10-12 lbs and was not eating well enough to regain enough strength to attempt it. Besides, why eat when I can climb?! Well, because I needed to keep up my strength and I was now feeling the effects. We continued our drive and passed a few other ridges which seemed skiable in winter.

 

At Jasper, we both knew that

Mt Edith Cavell wouldn’t be possible simply because we were both tired. I enquired about conditions anyway on the off chance but we opted instead to hike to Cavell Pond, which is a really easy hike. At the base of the mountain we had a look at the East Ridge route which is the classic line that most parties take (III, 5.3, 1200m). It is a striking line that just begs to be climbed. Even C confessed that she wanted to climb it as soon as she saw it. So we agreed that the next time we’re in the area in late July –mid August, we’ll have a go at it. After evaluating the hanging seracs at the foot of the glacier, we wandered through the talus to two ice caves and explored them a bit. They were about 4 m high and extended about 20 m deep. Man I wish I had my ice tools and crampons. It would have been fun to boulder the caves!

 

That morning, we also decided to visit Spirit Island, which sits halfway up Maligne Lake. The pictures of the valley were very picturesque and we figured that it would something relaxing to do. So, we paid for the guided boat tour and went on the 90 min excursion. It was pleasant but would have been better had we had sun. As it stood, we had a nice picturesque cloudy sky. So we took a few pictures but really, we don’t think it was worth the price we paid.

Spirit Island

 

After that was done, we slowly made our way into the prairies to explore Dinosaur Provincial Park. As we had already visited Drumheller a few years before, we figured it would be not only a nice way to end the trip but also something completely different. We reserved the campground and then purchased tickets for a guided hike to an excavation site where palaeontologists figure about 300 animals died in a flash flood. At $8 a ticket, we couldn’t go wrong. We weren’t disappointed. The tour lasted about 2 hrs and the first 45 min was a hike with stops along the way to explain different features. Once at the fossil area she revealed the excavation site. WOW! So many bones! She then explained how to identify bones that were exposed and just laying around and once she showed us those, we realized that they were everywhere! Really, everyone was scurrying around taking pictures of bones and bones fragments laying in the rock and dirt. So many that we were nearly tripping over them! Best $8 I ever spent.

 

And that was it. We went to Calgary, stayed in a hotel, went out to Jaroblue for super and the next day had a very uneventful flight home.

 

I already miss the Rockies and want to go back. Time to daydream again…

Rockies – Mount Victoria

THE most photographed mountain in Rockies has to be the one at the back of Lake Louise. Any person who first visits the Rockies is taken aback by the impressive views up the plain of six glaciers. Accompanied by mounts Fairview, Aberdeen, Lefroy, Whyte, Niblock and St-Piran, the giant in the back is Mount Victoria. Standing at 11,364 ft / 3464 m, it truly dominates the skyline.

 

Originally, C and I hoped to climb Grassi Ridge on Wiwaxy Peak. The weather had cleared up, sun was called for the following week and we absolutely love the Lake O’Hara area. It is truly a special place. A valley surrounded by alpine cirques, on a clear day every direction you look gives you stunning views. There are only two reasonable places (in price and/or approach) to stay while at Lake O’Hara, either the “backcountry” camping – which is rather plush for backcountry with toilets, a sink, and running water or the ACC Elizabeth Parker hut. Both were booked solid. I tried several times hoping for last minute cancellations. While doing laundry at the Banff town site, I suggested to C that because the weather looked promising we could go up to the Abbott Pass hut and attempt Mount Victoria. The approach to the Abbott Pass hut is only 4 hrs, but no one has anything good to say about the approach or descent. It starts pleasantly enough, lulls you into a false sense of security as you approach via a delightful trail laid in by hand by Lawrence Grassi himself. Then, at the 2 hr mark, you see it. The scramble up 35 degrees of unrelenting talus, scree and dirt. If you think its fun going up, you should try coming down! That is REAL fun! C and I did this 2 years ago. So when I suggested it (on the off chance) she glowered at me and gave me the “I’m doing this for you” look. After a few vain other attempts to get lodging at the 2 other locations, she finally said yes.

 

G & K approaching the hut

So, a few days later, off we went. When we arrived at the parking lot waiting for the bus, we met up with another couple, G and K, who were also sporting mountain axes. So I enquired as to whether they were also heading up to the pass and they were. Great! Another couple to share our upcoming misery with. So we hike together but since they had arrived a day earlier and were not yet acclimatized, they stopped often. That was OK by us as we were in no rush. We passed the series of lakes and alpine plateaus and finally donned helmets as we approached the giant limestone cliffs surrounding the pass. C and I, having already been up this way, pulled out our hiking poles and our axes, which really help getting purchase in the stones. And up we went. Following the yellow/blue markers painted on the rocks, we slowly ascended. It didn’t seem as long this time, maybe because we knew what was expected. Also, last time there were stove-sized rocks which occasionally tumbled down the sides. We didn’t have those this time so our nervousness was far less. About 4 hrs after leaving the parking lot, we reached the pass and were rewarded with the same beautiful vistas as last time. G and K finally made it was well, we cooked up some soup, then had supper. C and K were too tired to try for Mount Victoria so G and I decided that we would give it a go. We hiked up for 45 min that evening to the base of the last buttress just to route-find our way in the daylight. G started to get lightheaded so we turned back at 10,000 ft (3000 m). I figure 0 to 10,000 ft in 24 hrs was enough for anyone.

The evening before on 4th class terrain

 

 

I set my alarm for 4:30 and we went to bed. The raging windstorm outside woke me up at around midnight as I heard the scree being blown around and a few larger rocks hitting the sidewalls of the hut. By the time I got out of bed at 4;30 the wind had died down, there wasn’t a cloud in the sky and it was cold and crisp. Perfect conditions. Everything was frozen (which lessens rock and ice fall as well as avalanches) and there were no storms which is highly unusual for the area. The only concern would be the sun warming the snow and ice throughout the day. I went through my routine of putting on the various layers and equipment and applied a healthy dose of sunscreen everywhere, including inside my nostrils. Yeah, you laugh … but if you think a sunburned back hurts, wait until you burn the inside of your nostrils or your gum-line. That, my friends, is real sunburn pain. So, off we went.

Geared up at 5 am

 

 

A 5 am start is early but not too bad. Since we climbed to 10,000 ft the day before, we did the first scramble portion to just under 11,000 ft (3353 m) in about an hr. The portion we climbed the day earlier went in 30 min partially due to the fact that the dirt was frozen and as such, easier to gain purchase on. The 3^rd class scramble gave way to a healthy dose of 4^th class with exposure (about 3000 ft / 900 m worth) but we both felt confident on it and so went unroped. Finally gaining the ridge-line we started the traverse. From this point on, the climb was largely a ridge line traverse. On the B.C. (west) side, a 4000 ft / 1200 m sheer drop to the valley floor was broken only by the col to Mount Huber, a “subsidiary” 11,000 ft mountain adjoining Mt Victoria. The east side (Alberta / Lake Louise) gave us a 2,000 ft 60 degree ice slope followed by a 1,000 ft drop to the Plain of the Six Glaciers. So exposure was wild considering that some sections of the ridge were no more than 1 meter across. There was one section that I was worried about, the Sickle, but in the end there were 3 “sporty” areas.

 

 

Climbing into the Sickle with one tool - very awkward

 

The Sickle is a 30 m section of ridge which becomes a snow walk across a 50 cm wide section of ice/snow. It is considered the

 

 

crux of the climb and the sporty part is actually entering the Sickle. We arrived there and G suddenly felt the full brunt of the exposure. Truth be told, I felt quite exposed and I just pushed those thoughts out of my mind. We roped up for this. Being more experienced, I down-climbed the first 10 m on about 45 degree ice/hard snow and once I gained the snow ridge proper felt very comfortable. I placed one ice screw and one snow picket for protection for G. Once I got to the other side, I used an easy hip belay off an equalized anchor using a rock horn and my ice axe. Once across we unroped and continued on our way.

 

Sidebar – Now, before some of you wary climbers begin chastising me about using a hip belay, look at the link I provided. Now notice the biner clipped to the strong point of the harness and the rope passing through it. Now notice to catch a climber you have to bring the free-end of the rope across your body. The trick is also to pass the rope around your harness (not your back) and under the gear loops. This creates stability, friction, and saves the skin on your back should the climber fall. Also, ensure that the rope is travelling in the right direction around your body – pass it the wrong way and you could spin around in a fall and loose the belay. I have no doubt that it would hold a fall, though if you’re not wearing gloves you’ll loose your skin on your hands. Believe it or not, I have lowered C down a sheer ice face using this technique and you’d be amazed at the amount of friction the biner provides – so much friction that I nearly burned-out my shoulders belaying G with this technique. But the best part about the hip belay is that it’s fast. No fiddling with belay devices or extra biners. And you can pull in a lot more rope very quickly. In the mountains speed, or rather not wasting your time, can be safer.

 

Walking the DRY ridgeline

On my way up to Abbott Pass, I ran into a guide who told me about a crevasse that was hard to see. I soon found out why. Descending into the second snow ramp I only noticed the crevasse when I was standing on top of it! As we were already unroped when we noticed we quickly walked off while probing and had a look. Not big at all, I probed and the ice bridge was at least 1 m thick and hard. Good. But it might be a problem coming back. We continued. We then had to surmount the last buttress. It was mostly 3^rd class scrambling but to get to that section we had to get past a short (<5 m?) section of maybe low 5^th. As we were standing on an ice slope taking off crampons was not an option so we simply stowed our ice axes and climbed the section in crampons. Again, feeling confident we were unroped for this. Once past this obstacle we continued. At this point, G’s greater fitness showed itself (he runs marathons) as he beat trail to the summit while I lagged behind. He made the summit first. Good for him. It took us 3.5 hrs from the hut.

 

On the summit

 

The ridgeline we climbed

 

I’m always amazed at how short the euphoria of summiting lasts – about 2-3 breaths. We took a 10 min break, I scoffed down another Clif Bar and took the compulsory summit photos. From the summit we could see as far as the Selkirks, the Columbia icefield far to the North and Mount Columbia itself, as well as the Goodsirs, the Skoki area and other prominent peaks. Being worried about sun effect on the ice and snow, we soon started back. The upper layer of ice had softened to wet snow we only strapped on crampons twice on the way back – once to cross a snow ramp and the other time for the Sickle. G was surprised by how much the sun had soften the surfaces. We had a strong sun that day and at 11,000 ft there is significantly less atmosphere so the sun has more effect. The ice bridge over the crevasse was still frozen solid but the sides were a bit mushy. The Sickle had softened nicely so no rope was needed. At one point we were slightly off route and

 

 

rappelled 30 m to the main ridge instead of back-tracking. Several rappel stations indicated that we weren’t the first to commit this error. As G rappelled first he crashed through chandeliered ice

on the way down – I think it was one of the highlights of his day. At last we reached the initial buttress and so started our 500 m or so descent through 3^rd and 4^th class terrain back to the hut. We made it back to the hut in 2:45, so our total time was 6 ¼ hrs.

 

 

Exiting the Sickle on our descent. Gives a good idea of the exposure.

 

At the hut G and K went back down the pass to meet the bus out. C and I had an early supper and I was then so hungry that I scrounged around the hut and found an unopened box of noodles left behind by someone else. They were quickly cooked and went down quick. Usually I pack in too much food but this time I packed in not enough. Lesson learned. We left the next morning at 6 am. We were hoping to make the 9:30 bus out and we did with time to spare. It was a long descent on scree rollers and we scree-skiied (slid down on our feet) part of the way. Took some great photos of Lake O’Hara, got on the bus and then once off, drove our way back to the Lake Louise campsite. We bought tons of food and ate most of it. I gave myself a 1^st degree burn on my thumb after trying to turn sausages over an open flame using a fork. Yeah, I drank a bit – I EARNED it.